Nobuko Ōkubo’s Kimono Guidance
Nobuko Ōkubo suggests Sankatsu’s yukata, summer kimono, cotton, silk-wool, and wool garments as essential additions to your everyday wardrobe.
She is a leading authority on Edo/Nihonbashi style, and we asked her for tips on how to enjoy each item.
Yukata
Wearing Season: May to October
- Where to Wear
- Styling
- Care
Nagaita Chūgata, Edo Genroku, Cotton Komon, and Cotton Kōbai are all high-grade yukata suitable for summer.
If you coordinate them with an elegance that reflects their quality—as suggested in our seasonal products—they are perfect for dining, theater, or formal greetings to superiors.
Yukata are generally worn without a han-eri (collar insert). However, for Cotton Komon-like yukata that closely resemble kimono patterns, you might wear a han-eri and tabi (split-toe socks).
If you do, use a narrow han-eri made of materials like Ro, Sha, or Asa (hemp/gauze weaves).
The obiage (sash bustle) should be barely visible, creating a subtle, stylish effect (iki).
While many people now enjoy various fashion-forward stylings, always ensure the look is clean and cool.
After wearing, mist the yukata with water and hang it overnight to air out the perspiration; it can then be worn again.
If you need to wash it after sweating, dissolve a detergent for delicate items in water, soak the folded yukata, gently press-wash, and lightly spin-dry.
For drying, it’s best to use a kimono hanger that keeps the shoulders straight.
Smooth out wrinkles and hang it in a well-ventilated shade. Iron out any stubborn wrinkles.
Summer Kimono (Natsu Kimono)
Wearing Season June to Mid-September
- Where to Wear
- Styling
- Care
In summer, there are few occasions that demand strictly formal attire.
If you own one Silk Kōbai kimono, you can wear it almost anywhere by adjusting the obi: use a formal silk Ro, Sha, or Ra obi for special occasions, or a hemp or cotton obi for casual settings.
The key appeal is, above all, coolness.
A summer kimono must convey a visual sense of coolness.
While summer-specific embroidered han-eri (collar inserts) are available, please use a narrow white han-eri made of crisp materials like hemp (Asa), Ro, or Sha for a clean look.
Similarly, use a summer material for your obiage (sash bustle), such as Ro or Sha, keeping it narrow to ensure the overall ensemble is refreshing.
Silk intensely dislikes perspiration, so after wearing, mist the garment with water to air out the sweat.
Misting is sufficient for routine care. However, at the end of the season, take it to a Shikkaiya (kimono care specialist) for a full cleaning to thoroughly treat any sweat stains.
Be careful not to store silk with residual sweat, as it will cause yellowing.
Once yellowing occurs, even specialists cannot remove it, so please take precautions.
Cotton
Wearing Season September to Early November, and March to June.
Can be worn in mid-winter with proper cold-weather measures.
- Where to Wear
- Styling
- Hem Movement (Susosabaki) for Cotton
- Care
Cotton kimonos are comfortable and casual.
Enjoy wearing them for outings with friends or shopping.
For an easy-going style, you can wear them like a yukata—barefoot with geta (clogs) and a hanhaba obi (half-width sash).
For a more mature look, wear tabi and tie the obi in an Otaiko knot.
Though cotton usually doesn’t pair with formal zōri (sandals), coordinating it with high-grade geta makes it suitable for events like yose (rakugo theater), class reunions, or casual dining.
The key is to keep the look light and dynamic.
Items like embroidered han-eri or fukuro obi (formal sash) with gold/silver threads should be avoided as they diminish the inherent quality of the cotton material.
For a good balance, pair it with a Nagoya Obi and a Sanbu-himo (3-part cord) or the thinnest Maru-guke (round padded cord), selecting a slim, lightweight option.
For the obiage, choose a plain chirimen (crepe) or rinzu (damask) for the lined (Awa-se) season, or a plain Ro weave for the unlined (Hito-e) season, to maintain a light, brisk style.
For cotton kimonos like “Edo Hyakusen” or Kawagoe Tōzan, which drape beautifully with a straight silhouette, pay attention to the juban (undergarment) and suso-yoke (half slip).
For the suso-yoke, we recommend materials like Bemberg (Cupro), which have a suitable weight, are slippery, and resist static electricity.
For the nagajuban (full undergarment), wearing a silk juban will improve the hem movement.
If inspection after wearing shows no specific stains, press out wrinkles with a medium-setting iron from the back before storing.
For localized stains, place a towel underneath the stained area, and gently dab it with a water-dampened towel to lift the spot.
For washing, dissolve a delicate detergent in water, soak the folded kimono, gently press-wash, and lightly spin-dry.
For drying, hang it on a kimono hanger to keep the shoulders straight, smooth out wrinkles, and hang it in a well-ventilated shade.
Cotton shrinks about 5-7 cm in total length over 3 to 4 washes, so it’s a good practice to have the garment tailored 5-7 cm longer initially to account for this.
Silk-Wool (Silk Blend)
Wearing Season: October to mid-June
- Where to Wear
- Styling
- Care
The silk content gives it an elegant sheen and softness, making it extremely versatile. Depending on the formality of the obi, it can be worn casually or to more festive occasions.
Pairing it with a Shiro-zōme (dyed silk) or Hassun Nagoya Obi makes it appropriate for theater, concerts, or class reunions.
The advantage of Sankatsu’s silk-wool is its wide variety of options and ease of care.
We recommend choosing accessories in colors similar to the kimono.
If you make the color of the obi-jime (kimono cord) a focal point—a slightly brighter color than the obiage—it creates an elegant and youthful look.
If inspection after wearing reveals a stain, place a towel underneath the stained area and gently dab it with a towel dampened with water or benzine to lift the spot.
Wool is often said to be prone to moths, but the actual cause is usually food spills.
Check for spills after wearing and treat them as described above.
If you find a stain that cannot be removed with benzine, or at the end of the season, have it dry-cleaned.
Some products have undergone pre-processing, such as hot-water treatment (yutōshi), to make them washable at home, making them even easier to enjoy.
Profile: Nobuko Ōkubo
Nobuko Ōkubo serves as an Product Development and Styling Advisor for Sankatsu Co., Ltd.
She is a leading expert in kimono styling and Edo kimono research, active in magazines like “Kimono Salon,” “Utsukushii Kimono,” and “Nanao,” as well as at various talk shows.
